Some places on the Inside Passage have a reputation that reaches you before you ever arrive. For boats heading north, Johnstone Strait and the rapids are like that. You hear the names long before you get there: Yuculta, Dent, Greene Point, and then the long, wind-prone Johnstone Strait.
Most boaters choose the back route through the rapids before entering Johnstone Strait rather than traveling the full length of the strait. The reason is simple. Johnstone Strait is famous for challenging conditions caused by opposing wind and currents. In the summer, prevailing northwesterly winds blowing against an ebb current can build steep, choppy seas, and it's not unusual to hear gale warnings in the forecast.
The strait acts like a wind tunnel between Vancouver Island and the mainland mountains. When northwesterlies meet an ebb current, the water quickly builds short, steep waves that can make progress slow even for larger boats.
Going through the rapids offers some shelter from those conditions, but transiting them requires careful planning. Currents here can run faster than most cruising boats can motor, so timing matters.
We've gone north twice now. Same boat, same general route, but very different conditions. The first crossing was shaped by a desire to reach a safe anchorage before the winds picked up. The second was shaped by neap tides, patient staging, and a calm passage.
First Crossing - June 1, 2024
Heriot Bay → Sutil Channel → Drew Passage → Calm Channel
Our first passage started in Heriot Bay on Quadra Island, a busy anchorage filled with local boats on mooring buoys. From there we motored through Sutil Channel, Drew Passage, and Calm Channel, arriving at Yuculta Rapids well before slack with time to wait and watch the water settle.
Once the timing lined up, we entered Yuculta Rapids and continued directly through Gillard Passage and Dent Rapids. With the current flowing in our favor the passages moved quickly. The water was turbulent but nothing intimidating.
A useful rule of thumb for northbound boats: starting Yuculta Rapids about one hour before high-water slack usually gives enough time to carry the current through Gillard and Dent. Slower boats, however, will likely not make Greene Point before the ebb begins running strongly. At that point the choice is to anchor near Greene Point and wait for the next slack, or turn toward Johnstone Strait.
We checked the conditions and the forecast and decided not to wait. We turned to port into Cordero Channel.
Dent Rapids → Cordero Channel → Chancellor Channel
Johnstone Strait greeted us with a mix of everything: rain, clouds, sun, and even a rainbow. The water stayed calm, and with the ebb current helping us along the passage was uneventful and fast.
Boughey Bay
We anchored at Boughey Bay, a beautiful and pristine spot tucked along the shoreline. The mountains around the bay funnel wind down toward the water, which can create some roll and fetch. Even so, the holding was good and we did not drag, despite winds over 30 knots during the night.
Continuing North - June 4, 2024
We motored out of the anchorage, raised the mainsail, and set the jib, motorsailing along the north shore of Johnstone Strait as the wind slowly built. The breeze rose and fell throughout the day but never became too strong.
Partway through the passage a pod of porpoises appeared and began traveling with us. Another sailboat was moving along the same stretch of water, and the porpoises stayed with both boats, weaving through the waves ahead of our bows as we all moved north together.
Encounters with wildlife are always the highlight for me. I feel grateful every time I get to experience moments like this.
Second Passage North - August 2, 2025
A year later we approached the same tidal gates from farther north, this time starting from Bishop Bay near Walsh Cove.
Map of the 2025 route
Walsh Cove was crowded when we arrived, so we anchored one bay to the south. We left Bishop Bay early to make sure we wouldn't miss slack. When we came to Yuculta, the water was smooth and there was almost no wind.
The biggest difference from the previous year was that we were traveling during neap tides, so the currents were not as strong. After checking Ports and Passes, the essential current and tide guide for BC coastal waters, we decided to attempt five rapids in a single day.
Our route that day:
Bishop Bay → Waddington Channel → Pryce Channel → Raza Passage → Calm Channel → Yuculta Rapids → Gillard Passage → Dent Rapids
After Dent Rapids we continued into Cordero Channel, but instead of pushing onward immediately we anchored near the Cordero Islands for about an hour to wait for the correct timing at Greene Point. One of those moments where patience is the whole strategy.
We started toward Greene Point about 40 minutes before slack, but only because the currents were weak that day. This is not something I would recommend if the currents are running over two knots.
Pacifica's log in the Backstay All-weather Logbook
Once the timing lined up we continued through Greene Point Rapids, Chancellor Channel, Wellbore Channel, and Whirlpool Rapids, reaching Forward Harbour by evening.
The next morning we left early for Port McNeill. Although the forecast called for strong winds, we did not see anything stronger than about 15 knots.
Final Thoughts
Johnstone Strait and the rapids have a reputation that can feel intimidating when you first hear about them. Strong currents, narrow passages, and stories about rough conditions tend to stick with sailors.
But with careful planning, attention to tides, and a bit of patience, this part of the Inside Passage is nothing to be afraid of. Understanding the timing of the rapids and watching the wind forecast for Johnstone Strait makes all the difference.
For us, this route has been memorable not because it was difficult, but because it demanded full attention: reading the water, watching the kelp to gauge the current, feeling the boat accelerate as the tide worked in our favor. That kind of sailing stays with you.
